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Away from the Crowd

Multan

Little-visited Multan, in the lower Punjab, is claimed to be the oldest surviving city on the subcontinent, dating back some 4000 years. Once an important centre of Islam, it has since attracted more mystics, holy men and saints than you can shake a shalwar qamiz at. Today, Multan is dominated by their tombs and shrines, a fort that affords superlative views over the city, and one of the best bazaars in Pakistan - those not converted by Anita Roddick might like to snap up the skin potion made from lizards that's said to be an excellent revitaliser.

It's a 570km (353mi) trek down to Multan from Islamabad. Buses and minbuses descend on Multan from a variety of destinations including Karachi, Lahore, Rawalpindi, Faisalabad and Hyderabad, dropping passengers off at the chaotic general bus station. Trains (a more comfortable way to travel) shuffle between Lahore, Karachi, and Rawalpindi.

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Kalasha Valleys

Missionaries, anthropolgists and Duddley Do-rights come to the Kalasha Valleys, south of Chitral, for one thing - to gawk at a non-Muslim tribe (yes, you read correctly) that lives there. The people refer to themselves as Kalasha, live in solid houses made of wood, stone and mud, and quietly go about their pastoral lives raising grains and herding the odd goat. Amazingly, they seem unfussed by all the attention and seem to welcome interested Western observers.

Unless you walk, the only way into Chitral is by air (weather permitting), or via one of two passes high up in the altitudes, and even these are closed during the winter. And it's a long walk from Islamabad: 393km (245mi) to be exact. Once in Chitral you can reach the Kalasha Valleys by jeep, or by taking a bus part of the way and then doing the rest the hard way; on foot.

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Nanga Parbat

The Nanga Parbat massif (the name means 'Naked Mountain' in Kashmiri), in the southernmost part of the Northern Areas, has a 4500m (14,760ft) wall that is so steep even snow refuses to stick. The same can be said of a large number of climbers - they've been dropping from the scene for years. Beside it is a stomach-churning track that climbs up a valley and then over a pass. It regularly claimed jeeps over the side until the route was improved in 1987.

First off, you'll need to get to Gilgit (see Northern Areas section) and from there catch a bus or get a jeep to Astor. From Astor you can jeep it to several small villages in the area and after that it's strictly the hard yards on foot.

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